Giving the Van a face lift

I took the grill off for various reasons - check radiator, wiring, check out the condition of my A/C condenser, etc. and now was as good of a time as any to give it a fresh coat of paint.  I just gave it a bath, let it dry and then sprayed it with black auto trim paint.  I had the same can from when I spruced up my '83.5 and that worked out great.

Wash'n them up good before the paint job

Never did like that chrome around the edge.

Coolant Bottle and Sensor Install

EDIT: June 27, 2014 - Install the RMW Tank.  Much of the advice below still applies to installing the RMW Tank, so read on, but honestly, I'll never install a regular VW plastic coolant bottle again.

My review of the product/install is here:  RMW "Tank" Installed!

Today, I installed the coolant bottle for my RMW Subaru conversion.  It's a standard Vanagon coolant bottle.  RMW recently changed manufacturers for their kit's bottle because the old ones had quality control issues (e.g. leaked).  Despite thinking this was a slam dunk, it turned out to be more than I bargained for and I had to do a number of modifications to install it.

First, I learned that you should drill your holes BEFORE you install the engine.  I followed the 2011 RMW manual to a "T" and this was not mentioned.  With the engine installed, a normal drill will not fit to drill the holes for the bracket.  Luckily, Paul had a mini-drill and it worked wonderfully to drill the holes despite the engine being in the way.  Also, a "right-angle" drill or adapter for a normal drill would also work.  The DeWalt adapters at The Home Depot are only $18.

Needed a small drill because engine was in the way!

Second, when I eye-balled the bracket and bottle placement, it looked a little too close to the engine lid.  I drilled the bracket holes a finger's pad lower than specified in the RMW manual (e.g., directly under the tab).  Even after installing the bottle 1/2" lower than RMW specified, it still hit the deck lid when I put it on.  Notice the black foam crusting off the deck lid after I put it on.  Always measure before you drill!

RMW says install directly under tab, but I had to go 1/2" lower.

Third, while the new coolant bottle from RMW are better than the old ones (caps don't leak and bottle is more solid), the cap screws on to 9 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock.  This leads to a weird hose routing from the overflow tank to the bottle  It has to do a wrap-around to get back over to the nozzle on the cap.  Oh well.  

Cap tightens to 9 o'clock, leading to weird coolant hose routing

Last, I have an '86 Westy, which has an old style coolant level sensor and connector.  VW released an upgraded sensor/connector for late models.  The late model coolant level connector uses a metal spring loaded wire that keeps it snug on the sensor.  The old style connetor can easily pull off the sensor rendering it useless.  Funny thing is... the new, better style sensor is cheaper than the old style sensor!  To get the proper connector for it, all I had to do is go to the salvage yard and pull one from a mid-90s Jetta ($2).  I will solder this one on to my coolant level sensor wires in the Subaru/Vanagon wiring harness.  BTW:  I purchased the new, cheaper coolant level sensor from Van-Cafe.  I'm all set with upgraded parts!  So, happy...

Connector I pulled from a  mid-90s VW Jetta

Fits great on the newer, late model Vanagon coolant sensors

Subaru ECU Placement - Rear Passenger Tail Light Compartment

I've decided to re-position my Subaru ECU in the passenger tail light compartment that is opened up when the VW engine, relay and air snorkel are pulled out.  Here's a basic photo of the protective ECU box I'm installing and its location in the engine bay.

ECU box placement in rear passenger tail light compartment

Many people do not want to put their Subaru ECU in the engine bay, citing things like "the elements will ruin your ECU" or "VW engineers did not put ECUs in the engine bay and they know best".  Well, that was the 1980s and things change as technology and innovation advances.  Besides, if VW engineers know "best", why am I replacing their engine with a Subaru?  :)

Subaru/Vanagon conversion experts likeVanaru (Vanaru.com), Ben @ (benplace.com) and Paul Guzyk (BoulderHC.com), do every conversion this way and are quite successful at it.  I personally chose this location for many reasons:

1. The wiring harness ends up clean and straight forward - essentially, the wiring harness becomes a true plug-and-play, turn-key installation.  Initially, I went with a RMW harness (their default location for the ECU is in the rear bench seat), but this solution ends up being two harnesses, one for the main engine and another separate sub-harness for the ALT, voltage sensor, AC compressor, starter, fuel pump, and coolant level sensor.  After seeing the slick turn-key solution provided by Vanaru that easily combined all these into a single harness, I just had to redo it that way!
2. This single, wiring harness is visible 100% from the engine bay rather than having some portion of it tucked away behind the firewall.  I like being able to easily inspect my harness without getting under my van.
3. The wiring harness wraps around the back and top of the engine bay, staying out of the way of road hazards.  In contrast, when locating the ECU in the rear bench seat, the wiring harness is exposed to these hazards between the firewall and bench seat opening.
4. It utilizes the newly opened space in the engine bay that would be wasted otherwise.
5. It opens up room for storage in the rear bench seat or closet, which are two other common locations for Subaru ECUs.  That said, I'm a storage Nazi.  For instance, I'm also removing my rear heater to open up even more space under the rear bench seat. You may not care about storage like I do.
6. Diagnostic ports (OBD2 and the proprietary Subaru ones) are more easily reached right in the engine bay compared to the rear bench seat area.  So, a mechanic can more easily scan & reset codes from this location.

The photo here shows how I plan to layout the harness.  It is based on the Vanaru design.  It will be basically the same except where noted in RED.  I'll be tying in my ALT harness into the main harness a little differently.

Example Vanaru conversion that I'll be using as a prototype for my wire harness layout and ECU box placement

If you put your ECU in the engine bay, you need to protect it from the elements!  I describe how I am doing this with full step-by-step DIY "how to" here:  http://westycamper.blogspot.com/p/ecu-box.html

New BOSCH Starter Installed

Word on the street is that you should put in a nice, new starter when doing a Subaru conversion.  The engine takes a weeee bit more to crank and considering how you have to take the whole frigg'n Subaru engine off the trany just to install a new starter, now it the time to do it when they are apart anyway.

I have an '86 Weekender, which was the last year VW put in the wimpy HP starters.  Given the later model Vanagon starters, which are beefier, fit fine in the early model vans, I opted for one of those to make sure I had enough cranking power.  We will see!

EDIT: July 16, 2014 - This starter works awesome for my Subaru 2.5L.  It turns over immediately every time.  Only time will tell how long it lasts, but very very happy so far with it.

SR401X - packs more HP than the old one for my '86

New BOSCH starter on the trany