Coolant Bottle and Sensor Install

EDIT: June 27, 2014 - Install the RMW Tank.  Much of the advice below still applies to installing the RMW Tank, so read on, but honestly, I'll never install a regular VW plastic coolant bottle again.

My review of the product/install is here:  RMW "Tank" Installed!

Today, I installed the coolant bottle for my RMW Subaru conversion.  It's a standard Vanagon coolant bottle.  RMW recently changed manufacturers for their kit's bottle because the old ones had quality control issues (e.g. leaked).  Despite thinking this was a slam dunk, it turned out to be more than I bargained for and I had to do a number of modifications to install it.

First, I learned that you should drill your holes BEFORE you install the engine.  I followed the 2011 RMW manual to a "T" and this was not mentioned.  With the engine installed, a normal drill will not fit to drill the holes for the bracket.  Luckily, Paul had a mini-drill and it worked wonderfully to drill the holes despite the engine being in the way.  Also, a "right-angle" drill or adapter for a normal drill would also work.  The DeWalt adapters at The Home Depot are only $18.

Needed a small drill because engine was in the way!

Second, when I eye-balled the bracket and bottle placement, it looked a little too close to the engine lid.  I drilled the bracket holes a finger's pad lower than specified in the RMW manual (e.g., directly under the tab).  Even after installing the bottle 1/2" lower than RMW specified, it still hit the deck lid when I put it on.  Notice the black foam crusting off the deck lid after I put it on.  Always measure before you drill!

RMW says install directly under tab, but I had to go 1/2" lower.

Third, while the new coolant bottle from RMW are better than the old ones (caps don't leak and bottle is more solid), the cap screws on to 9 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock.  This leads to a weird hose routing from the overflow tank to the bottle  It has to do a wrap-around to get back over to the nozzle on the cap.  Oh well.  

Cap tightens to 9 o'clock, leading to weird coolant hose routing

Last, I have an '86 Westy, which has an old style coolant level sensor and connector.  VW released an upgraded sensor/connector for late models.  The late model coolant level connector uses a metal spring loaded wire that keeps it snug on the sensor.  The old style connetor can easily pull off the sensor rendering it useless.  Funny thing is... the new, better style sensor is cheaper than the old style sensor!  To get the proper connector for it, all I had to do is go to the salvage yard and pull one from a mid-90s Jetta ($2).  I will solder this one on to my coolant level sensor wires in the Subaru/Vanagon wiring harness.  BTW:  I purchased the new, cheaper coolant level sensor from Van-Cafe.  I'm all set with upgraded parts!  So, happy...

Connector I pulled from a  mid-90s VW Jetta

Fits great on the newer, late model Vanagon coolant sensors