P1101 Code Resolved - NOT!

EDIT July 7, 2014: IT'S BACK!  Grrrrrrr.....  Onto the next thing to try!  I'll keep you posted.

My 2001 M/T Subaru ECU had been throwing a P1101 - Neutral position switch circuit low error for several weeks now.  In simple terms, it means the ECU is not recognizing whether the manual transmission Neutral or in gear, which is understandable because there is no transmission sensor on the Vanagon to tell the Subaru ECU what it's doing.  I got advice from Tom Sheils on how to resolve.  The fix was to put a 470 Ohm resistor between the Neutral SW B26 wire on the ECU and GND.  Note: On other years of Subaru, this may not be the B26.  It was an easy modification to make since RMW had labeled the proper B26 Neutral SW wire.

With the resistor in place, I test drove the Vanagon on several trips that had previously caused the P1101 code and it did not appear.  So, I'm calling it fixed!

Resistor wired up and then heat shrink (on left) sealed it up

Protected by glass fuse holder and wired between the B26 Neutral SW wire & GND

RMW "Tank" Installed!

There is so much that can go wrong with the plastic coolant bottles.  For instance, my original VW coolant bottle had a crack in it, caps don't seal or maintain pressure, and the seams often split as well.  After my Subaru conversion in which I bought a brand new bottle and cap, the cap leaked several times. So, about the 4th time, I tightened it real good, which stripped the cheesy plastic threads and then NO cap would hold!   To add insult to injury, I also had a brand new sensor installed, which leaked as well.  Again, probably a stripped threads issue.  Before my important Fourth of July camping trip, I decided to call RMW and upgrade to "the Tank".  It arrived in 2 days and installed in 2 hours.  OMG am I glad I did it.  The Tank is da BOMB!!!!

RMW Tank installed (without sensor hooked up)

Overhead view: The RMW Tank is narrower than the VW coolant bottle

This product is solid A+ construction as expected from RMW.  There is no way it is leaking - end of story!

1. The package includes instructions, wiring connectors for sensor, bracket, tank, cap, and all the bolts necessary to install bracket to the van and the bottle to the bracket
2. RMW changed their sensor and the new sensor is super easy to wire-up
3. The bracket is solid and the holes match perfectly with the RMW bracket for the regular VW coolant bottle, so no re-drilling is required when you upgrade.  Well, to be honest, I had to open up the the holes in the engine bay a weeee bit for the Tank's bracket bolts to fit.  But, I didn't have to re-measure and completely re-drill new holes.
4. The bottom nipple is a standard size, so no weird reducing heater hose or adapter is needed.  Awesome!
5. The Tank is narrower than the VW coolant bottle, so fits easier in the engine bay and looks fantastic.

Total install time (removing old & adding the Tank): 2 hrs for a beginner mechanic on a mission, less time I'm sure, for a pro.

Vanagon's Auxiliary Battery Design

Here is how I set up my auxiliary battery, battery charger, and power inverter.

1. Starter and Aux batteries are connected via the Sure Power 100A battery separator (location: under driver seat) with 6 AWG cable.  Sure Power battery separator is grounded as specified in their manual, using a 10A inline fuse.

2. There are 80A fuses close to each + terminal to protect most of the 6 AWG wire from melting again on a voltage dump.

3. I bought a new 12V fuse block (location: under driver seat) for under the driver seat.  This prevents having to mess around more under the main Vanagon fuse panel when hooking up other 12V accessories in the future.

4. A 50 Amp circuit breaker (location: under driver seat) protects the whole 12V fuse block's accessories from complete melt down while each has their own fuse, of course.

5. ProSport 12 battery charger by ProMariner (location: under driver seat) plugs into the Sure Power battery separator and charges each from shore when available.

6. PowerBright 1100W Inverter (location: back of Weekender Jump Seat) is hooked up for AC outlets in van. The inverter's + cable is protected, as recommended by manufacturer, with a 100A mini ANL fuse.

Updated Cruise Control Page

With the summer camping season here and my interior completely ripped out, other projects are taking precedence over the cruise control project.  However, I've gotten several questions on it from folks, so I figured I should get it updated with my latest approach.

Tonight, I edited my Subaru Vanagon - Cruise Control page modifying the logical design diagram to better reflect how the cruise control is shaking out after getting the van running this month.   Also, I instead of using the Subaru cruise control stalk I am now going to be using the Vanagon turn signal w/ cruise control that I luckily found on TheSamba classifieds.